Ripe apricot, white peach, jasmine, nut oil, fresh lime and hazelnut pour from the glass of Lafon 2006 Meursault Perrieres. Offering an amazing combination of subtly creamy richness and underlying firmness with utmost elegance and wafting floral notes, the 14 barrels’ worth of this beauty from 55 year old vines represent around 60% new wood, but it’s not noticeable as such. The finishing interplay of floral, fruit, nut oil, and mineral nuances in the finish will keep you occupied for minutes at a time, and this densely layered yet lacy Meursault should merit more than a decade of attention in the bottle as well. The subtly truffle-scented, extraordinarily mineral, tartly-fruited 2005 lacks the lift, and elegance of the 2006 but is memorably-concentrated, almost severe in finish, and brimming with potential.
(180, The Wine Advocate 22nd Dec 2008)